Inspiration for daughter’s formal dress was Valentino – the cape back reminded me of 1960’s shoulder trained Wedding Dresses, so first, I made a toile from a 1972 McCalls pattern 2185 – ditched the centre seam and made a jewel neckline. We took the back darts in a little more and reduced the width and shape of the front and cut it on a bias to make it cling a bit more than the original
Then I replaced the top of the bodice with the bodice piece from a 1968 Vogue pattern 7328
Finally I made the cape pieces the front from shaping the bodice front of Vogue 7328 and easing the fabric into the under bust seam rather than darting it as per the under bodice, and drafted up the back of the cape from the back piece of McCalls 2185 using McCalls 8558 as a guide to the shape of the cape….
The completed cape is first sewn into the bust seam, then I sewed the neckline of bodice and cape together with a facing (a slit in the back of the cape and a zip in the back of the dress) with a facing to finish it, facings on the arms, and a hem…done!